Where To Buy Deft Clear Wood Finish
Deft Clear Lacquer Wood Finish is a fast drying, easy-to-use finish for interior wood finishing projects. This is a fast drying, clear brushing lacquer. Self-leveling. Resists brush marks. Dries to touch in 30 minutes at 77 F and 50% relative humidity. Also recommended for interior metals.
where to buy deft clear wood finish
Deft Quick-drying, clear lacquer sealer and finish. Alcohol and water resistant finish. Excellent for crafts, metals. Dries in 30 min. Can be recoated in 2 hrs. No sealer is necessary.
Back story:I've been refinishing my bass guitar. I bought it used and the previous owner refinished it himself, and did a subpar job. The finish was tacky, and wrinkled. It would stick to my arm and pants when I would play the bass sitting down.So I decided to do my first ever refinish. I stripped the old finish off, realized that he had stained the Basswood a darker color. After many hours of sanding, and a bit of bleaching as well, I got it back to original basswood color. I then used Tasnfast water-soluble dyes to dye it a green/black burst. Now I'm done with all that, I'm starting to put the Deft Nitro finish on it. I did 2 light coats and then a 3rd heavy coat. I let that dry for about an hour, then did a light sanding over the whole body, and whiped it down with a dry, lint free cloth to get all the dust off. I let it sit overnight.Today, I was trying to decide if I should go straight into spraying or if I should clean the surface with either distilled water or mineral spirits to make sure there was no dust left over. I decided to use distilled water . I only used it on a small part when I realized the rag was somehow pulling dye up (very minuscule amounts, almost unnoticeable other than the fact that it was green on a white cloth) I immediately stopped and dried it off with a clean rag. Let it continue drying for 30 minutes, and then I did a 4th light coat of Deft Nitro.Did I make a big mistake by using water on the 1 day old finish? I'm really worried that I messed my project up. I don't want it becoming like the finish that was on there previously. It's the whole reason I decided to refinish it. :/What are the dos and donts when Finishing with Nitro lacquer? Is mineral spirits ok? How long after I spray on a coat is it safe to sand? I'm an amateur at best when it comes to finishing wood, but so far things have been going well, and I know if I mess this up theres no going back. haha. Please help!
Phew. *sigh of relief*Thanks Ace. You've calmed my nerves quite a bit. I went ahead and did a 5th coat just a little bit ago. I went a little heavier this time trying to finish up this can of Nitro. Letting this coat dry probably for an hour or more before going again.I did some research while waiting for a reply here and I did find that same information; that Nitro lacquer reactivates and "melts" together with the previous coat. Which also gave me a bit of nerve relief. Nitro seems like a pretty forgiving material to work with.What kind of problems typically cause a clear coat finish to become tacky/sticky? For example, before I refinished this bass, the finish would become sticky from the heat from my arm/leg and it would collect dirt/grime onto the surface. What causes that, and what can be done to prevent that? Do I have to worry about my Nitro finish doing the same thing after the project is done?EDIT: actually I just remembered, the guitar's finish stuck to my guitar stands as well, so it wasn't because of the body heat. It was simply prolonged pressure on one part. It would cause the finish to squish and move and it would become sticky. Same question remains, what causes that?
Nc and chloride dont play we'll together. Ever been to a resteraunt with sticky old wooden table tops and soft finish. That's chloride softening. Newer precats dont have this problem deft still does.
Thats interesting on the blush. To my knowledge, the brushing and spray deft have a retarder in it to slow the dry. Hence making it difficult to blush? If the blushing is sitting on top. It will sand out. Question...you are spraying clear and a not satin.
here it is after I RE-sanded. I could still see some scratches in the wood and some uneven spots that I didn't like the look of. I skipped a few grits in the initial sanding, and I went way too high in grits. I originally sanded all the way up to 1000, thinking that's how you got a super smooth finish. But upon reading stuff here at The Wood Whisperer, I foudn out that when using dyes or stains you dont want to go too high or the stain/dye has issues absorbing. so I resanded, this time not skipping any grits and stopping at 320. (60, 80, 100, 120, 180, 220, 320) Smoothed out all the scratches and overall looked a lot better and more even.I've only been posting the front of the bass since I dont want to have to post like 40 pics.Started with black dye (on the back.. kinda my test side. since it's not as important as the front.)
Things are shaping up...that's great news A few things come to mind. First, about that end-grain blushing. How long did you let the wood dry out after bleaching? Second, next time it's always a good idea to neutralize the bleach. If you don't, re-wetting the wood with finishes can cause you issues with your finishing.
Just saying... the wood was exposed to a lot of moisture and that is a thick hunk of wood so it takes longer to dry out. Then the wood was re-wet with water-based dye, plus you indicated you live in Florida and humidity has been high thus making it take longer for the wood to dry out. Finishing issues can take time to show their ugly heads. Maybe fine for a couple months then the finish starts to deteriorate and adhesion is lost and finish starts to peel or get tacky.
Always a good idea to neutralize in my opinion, along with potential finishing issues, another good reason is chlorine bleach attacks and breaks down the woods fibers, can make the wood punky and soft. This can cause your color to take up unevenly.So by neutralizing it, you stop the action quickly.
The idea with "bleaching" is to know what your trying to get rid of. For example oak your after the ferrous materials and the way to go after ferrous material is an acid (very low ph). Bleach (very high ph) will oxidize natural pigments found in the wood or put there by a previous finish but wont do anything for ferrous.
Deft colorless wood coating for touch-ups, repair, and restoration. Oil-based lacquer spray finishes and restores furniture, beautifies woods, is fast and easy, and leaves a beautiful finish. California Compliant. Convenient aerosol can for hard-to-brush surfaces. Clean up with lacquer thinner. Color: Clear Sheen: Gloss Lacquer Type: Interior Aerosol Container Size: 12.25 oz Coverage: 60 sq ft Dry To Touch: 30 Minutes Number Of Coats Recommended: 3 WARNING: Cancer - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. -
Since this will be in the kitchen, there is a possibility that it could get wet, so apply a water resistant paint or finish to protect the wood. I used several coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish Satin Spray Lacquer.
Among the pleasures of examining Puccinelli and Goodman'sworks, beyond their endlessly playful and sometimes profound rearrangementsof a familiar world, is the consideration of how they are working together-- of the kind of conversation they are having -- in any given endeavor.In collaborations such as the Trace Prints Project, in which theartists took turns drawing on sheets of paper atop inked plates, resultingin odd combinations of lifted ink-line images and ghost images on the reverseside, one sees a drifting or rambling back-and-forth not unlike an actualextended conversation. One topic leads to the next; subjects are droppedor changed, and picked up later; trails grow cold; ice gets broken; thingsheat up; moods shift. In situations where they have exchanged works forone another to complete, there is an air of anything goes tempered withrespect. It's clear that neither artist consciously acts to diminish orundermine what the other had set in motion, but one also senses that inthe act of giving over one's work to the other there is an understandingof permission and liberty. The abandonment by one affords abandon on thepart of the other. The concept of exchange becomes literal and palpable.And in the case of what one might call their categorical projects, whereinthe artists both create and co-create objects or images of a certain typeto be displayed together as a group, such as their recent foray into variationson the image/object of pajamas in which the basic form remains constantwhile variables of material, scale, pattern, and applied imagery truly tugthe artists and their viewers in every imaginable direction, one gets thesense of two enthusiasts -- crafters, collectors, and connoisseurs all atonce -- exchanging and comparing notes. At a basic, playful level, theyare like kids saying, "look what I got," or "look what Idid," and at the most advanced level they're like a pair of scholarssurveying the variations of a species or a pair of poets exhausting variationson a theme. 041b061a72